Imperial Crowns and Garments

original: "御用冠服" (Yùyòng guānfú). This refers specifically to the attire worn exclusively by the Emperor for the most formal state rituals.

In our current dynasty The Ming Dynasty (1368–1644)., for the sacrifices to Heaven, the "Great Fur" robe is no longer used; instead, the Ceremonial Dragon Robe and Crown are worn. Dragon Robe and Crown original: "衮冕" (Gǔnmiǎn). This is the "Gun" robe—decorated with dragons—and the "Mian" crown—a flat-topped mortarboard style with dangling strings of beads. This ensemble is worn for sacrifices to Heaven and Earth, the Imperial Ancestral Temple, the Altars of Soil and Grain, and the First Farmer. It is also worn on New Year’s Day, the Winter Solstice, the Emperor’s Birthday, during formal court audiences, and for the solemn ceremonies of investiture or appointment.

The ensemble consists of a Dark Upper Robe and an Ochre-Red Lower Skirt. original: "玄衣纁裳" (Xuányī xūncháng). The dark robe symbolizes Heaven (the mysterious void), while the ochre-red skirt symbolizes the Earth. The crown is constructed with a flat board on top that is one foot two inches wide and two feet four inches long. The top is covered with a dark exterior and lined with vermilion. At the front and back of the crown, there are Twelve Tassels; each tassel consists of twelve jade beads in five colors. Twelve Tassels original: "十二旒" (Shí'èr liú). These strings of beads hung before the Emperor's eyes, symbolically reminding him to remain focused and not see every minor fault of his subjects, maintaining a sense of impartial majesty. A jade hairpin secures the crown, accompanied by vermilion tassels.

The upper robe features Six Emblems painted upon it: the Sun, the Moon, the Stars, the Mountains, the Dragons, and the "Flowery Bird." original: "華蟲" (Huáchóng), usually depicted as a pheasant, representing literary refinement. The lower skirt features Six Emblems embroidered upon it: the Ancestral Temple Vessels, aquatic weeds, fire, grains of rice, the axe-head, and the "distinct" pattern. Six Emblems Together, the 6 on the robe and 6 on the skirt make the "Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority," representing the Emperor's virtues (e.g., the axe represents the power to judge, fire represents brilliance).

The inner garment is made of plain white gauze. The Red Silk Knee-Cover is one foot wide at the top, two feet wide at the bottom, and three feet long; it is embroidered with three emblems: the dragon, fire, and mountains. Knee-Cover original: "蔽膝" (Bìxī). An ornamental panel hanging from the waist, a remnant of ancient leather aprons used for protection during labor, here transformed into a symbol of ritual purity. The leather belt is adorned with jade pendants and is three feet three inches long. The grand sash has a plain white exterior and a vermilion lining, with green borders; it is decorated with vermilion brocade on top and green brocade on the bottom. The large ribbon uses six colors—yellow, white, red, dark, pale blue, and green—with a base of pure dark material...