Page 17
Clothing, Volume 2

The Square Heart and Curved Collar

Square Heart and Curved Collar (方心曲領, Fāngxīn Qūlǐng): A specialized ritual neckpiece worn over the primary ceremonial robe. It consists of a rigid circular band that fits around the neck, with a rectangular (square) pendant that hangs down over the wearer's chest.

This accessory is one of the most philosophically significant parts of Chinese ritual dress. It embodies the ancient concept of Tiānyuán Dìfāng (天圓地方), or "Round Heaven and Square Earth." The circular collar represents the sky/heavens, while the square pendant represents the earth. By wearing it, the Crown Prince or Emperor physically represents his role as the mediator between the two realms.

As depicted in traditional woodcuts, the pendant is kept flat and centered on the chest, often finished with silk ribbons that tie behind the neck to secure the piece in place.

Construction and Usage

While the primary robe provides the base, the Square Heart and Curved Collar provides the "rectitude" of the silhouette. In the Ming Dynasty, it was typically made of white silk, though specific ranks might have different colored borders or materials depending on the solemnity of the occasion.

The "Curved Collar" refers to the circular part of the garment, which was often stiffened with a lining of hemp or thick paper to maintain its perfect shape during long ceremonies. The "Square Heart" refers to the rectangular piece that hangs vertically.

This ornament was required for the most formal levels of dress, including the Sacrificial Robes (Mianfu) and the Court Audience Robes (Chaofu). For a Crown Prince, wearing this collar was a mark of his preparation for his eventual duties as the Son of Heaven, signifying that his heart remained "square" (upright and orderly) while he acted under the "round" (all-encompassing) gaze of Heaven.