Collected Illustrations of the Three Realms: Clothing, Volume 3

Page 5

Unlined Robe original: 衫 shan

The Treatise on Chariots and Dress original: Yufu Zhi (輿服志); a standard section in Chinese dynastic histories detailing official costumes and transport states that Ma Zhou a prominent Tang Dynasty official, 601–648 CE submitted a proposal arguing that in the ancient rites of the Three Dynasties the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties of antiquity, there was no textual record of wearing the shan shan (衫): a single-layered, unlined robe or long shirt, often worn for comfort or as a less formal outer layer.

In those ancient times, they had the Deep Robe original: shenyi (深衣); a classical garment where the tunic and skirt were sewn together. During later periods, a version with blue decorative borders on the sleeves and collar original: qinglan xiu biao zhuan (青襴袖褾襈) became the formal attire for scholars and the literati.

Robes designed with slits at the hips were called side-slit robes original: que kua shan (缺胯衫); literally "missing-hip robe," designed for mobility. These were worn by commoners and are what we call four-paneled robes original: si ku shan (四袴衫) today. It is said that this convention essentially began with Ma Zhou.

The illustration accompanying this text shows a traditional long-sleeved robe with a cross-collar, characteristic of the Ming Dynasty's interpretation of Tang Dynasty styles.