Collected Illustrations of the Three Realms: Clothing

Collected Illustrations of the Three Realms original: 三才圖會 Sancai Tuhui

Clothing, Volume 3

Cloud Stole

original: 霞帔 Xiápèi

Regarding the stole original: 帔 Pèi; a long, narrow decorative garment worn over the shoulders, trailing down the front, the Veritable Records original: 實錄 Shilu; likely referring to a specific historical chronicle state that this garment did not exist during the Three Dynasties the Xia, Shang, and Zhou periods, traditionally considered the foundation of Chinese civilization.

It is said that the Qin dynasty 221–206 BC introduced "draped silk" original: 披帛 Pībó, which was made of a fine, sturdy silk fabric. By the Han dynasty, these were crafted from lightweight gauze. During the Yongjia era of the Jin dynasty 307–313 AD, the "platform-style stole" was established. Thus, the concept of draped silk originated with the Qin, while the formal stole began with the Jin.

Tang dynasty 618–907 AD regulations permitted women below the rank of the Three Consorts the highest-ranking imperial wives below the Empress to wear it generally. Unmarried women of the scholar and commoner classes would wear "draped silk" while staying in the family home; however, once they were married, they would wear the formal "stole" original: 帔子 Pèizi. This practice served as a way to distinguish their social status and whether they were "at home" or "wedded."

By the Song dynasty 960–1279 AD, there were three distinct grades of stoles. The "Cloud Stole" literally "Rosy Cloud Stole," named for its beautiful colors resembling the sky at dawn or sunset was a mark of high prestige; a woman could not wear it unless it was bestowed upon her as a special imperial honor.

The accompanying illustration shows a "Xiápèi," a long, V-shaped ceremonial stole that would be draped over the neck and shoulders. It is decorated with intricate patterns of clouds and auspicious birds, ending in a pointed or weighted tip often adorned with a decorative pendant.