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original: 甘草, Gancao; Glycyrrhiza uralensis
Licorice is categorized as a "Superior Grade" herb in the Classic of Herbal Medicine original: 本經, Benjing; referring to the Shennong Bencao Jing, the foundational text of Chinese pharmacology. In the Erya The oldest surviving Chinese dictionary, dating to the 3rd century BCE, it is referred to as fan or "Great Bitter"; the commentary by Guo Pu identifies this as the licorice of the present day. The Dream Pool Essays A scientific and literary work by the Song Dynasty polymath Shen Kuo (1031–1095) states that licorice resembles the locust tree but with pointed leaves—a description that is extremely accurate. The Classic of Poetry says: "Gathering the ling herbs, gathering the ling herbs, upon the heights of Mount Shouyang." Mount Shouyang is located in what is now Puzhou Prefecture. In the local customs of the Jin region Modern-day Shanxi province, people pluck the tender buds, mix them with flour, and steam them for food. Their flavor is as sweet as malt sugar. I suspect that the "gathering of ling" in the poem also refers to harvesting it as a vegetable.
The agriculturalist Yuyu says: "Licorice is the State Elder Guolao; a title of respect given to licorice because it harmonizes the various ingredients in a medical formula, much like a senior statesman mediates between factions of medicines; even women and children are familiar with its taste." In Guo Jingchun's The courtesy name of Guo Pu (276–324), a famous scholar and commentator encyclopedic notes on the Erya entry for "Great Bitter," he states it is today's licorice. However, some sources claim it grows in trailing vines with leaves like a lotus, or that it resembles Rehmannia original: 地黃, Dihuang; also known as Chinese Foxglove. In truth, licorice does not trail at all, nor does it look like a lotus. These descriptions are likely based on conflicting rumors or errors in transcription. It is especially unlike Rehmannia; the use of the word "some say" indicates that the original authors themselves had doubts.
Tao the Recluse Tao Hongjing (456–536), a renowned Taoist physician and alchemist also noted that it came from the Hexi and Shangjun regions, but those trade routes are no longer open to the markets. Today, the herb comes from the Shu and Hanzhong regions; those that are firm and solid are considered the true variety. The "Locust-bud Herb" is the best. When the capital of the Jin Dynasty was moved and the western borders were cut off from the lands south of the river, scholars in the south could no longer verify the plant through direct observation...