Athos and Its Monasteries

to these supplanters, which at least make it
possible for the ordinary person to pay a flying
visit to one of the most interesting communities
in the world—a theocratic republic verging on its
thousandth year of unchallenged dominion, and
forty-eight hours from Vienna.

Today with your steamer you will find strange
contrasts on your pious, learned, or merely curious
voyage. Russian pilgrims, it may be, in sheep-
skin coats and high boots, jostling journalists and
insurance agents—for nowadays monks subscribe
to papers and insure their lives—but at least you
reach your destination; and yesterday with a
sailing-boat you never could tell.

The port of the Mountain—Daphne, on the
southern shore of the peninsula—is an open road-
stead with a few houses and the inevitable church
on the shore. The customs examination is purely
formal. Passports are collected on landing and
sent up to Karyès, the administrative centre,
whence, if the traveller intends to return by
another way, they can be sent to meet him at
Daphne.

comes late and suddenly. For comfort the months from May
to July inclusive are to be preferred: in the height of summer
the heat is not unbearable and the nights cool.